Saat ronge Satkosia

SATKOSIA .... Orissa r Angul sohor theke jete hoy. Ekhono temon porichito noy porjotok mohole. Ki aache sekhane? ..... Ek sathe ekta jaygaay pawa jabe - jongol, pahar, nodi, banya-prani aar prakriti.
Anekdin dhore ekhane jawar ichcha thakleo, nana karone hoye oothe ni. Ebar tai ekrokom jor korei, ami aar Debojyoti da (Pather Katha r), dujone beriye porlaam. 1st Jan'2010 raat ee Madras Mail dhore pordin sakale Cuttak. Sekhan theke Bus dhore Angul r kaache Nalco. Sekhan theke 2 din r janne ekti gari niye beriye porlaam, Angul theke 60 Km durer Satkosia.
Mahanadi pray 7 krosh path du pasher jongol bhora pahar r majkhan diye gobhir Gorge tairi kore boye geche. Tarpor Cuttack r kaache eshe prasarito hoyeche, sagar e bilin hoyar aage. Eei 7 krosh mahanadir gorge aar du-pasher jongol bhora pahar mile shristi hoyeche ek apurba prakiti, jaa jib-baichitre jathesto samridhyo.

Angul, Nayagarh oo Boudh - eei 3 ti jela te bistrito Satkosia Gorge Wildlife Sanctuary. Er bistriti pray 745 sq. km. Mahanadi r eei gorge eei jongol modhye diye, du pasher paharer modhye diye boye geche 22.5 km/14 miles, arthat 7 krosh path - Binkei theke Bodmul. Tai naam Satkosia. 2005 saal ee eei Tiger Reserve r shiropa paay. Labangi, Baghmunda, Tulka namer gobhir jongolguli eei sanctuary r antarbhukta.
Tikarpada, Mahanadi r baam tirborti ekti sundar, chimcham gram, Purnakot police station ebong Angul jela r antarbhukta. Mahanadi r eei gorge r soundarya sobtheke beshi upobhog kora jaay eei Tikarpada thekei. Eei Gram er 20 ti poribaar mile, Forest Department r sahajye, 4/5 bochor aage ekhane ekti Nature Camping r byabosta suru koren, nijer rooti-ruji r upaay hisebe.

Angul sohor chariye gari ektu egotei, amra sohor theke sobuj er majhe eshe porlaam. Du pashe khet ee sobe dhaan kata hoyeche, sorshe khet ee jeno sona choriye diyeche keu, dure pahar oo jongol r haatchani. Eei bhabe 1.5 ghanta cholar por amra eshe porlaam Satkosia Wildlife Sanctuary r probesh daare. Kolkata theke fax marfaat aagei Tikarpara Nature Camp ee thakar ebong Jongol ee ghorar anumati r janne abedaan kore rekhechilaam. Fax r copy dekhatei Anumati patra ebong booking slip peye gelam. Ekhan theke aaro 45 min gari niye egotei pouche gelam Tikarpada. Ashar pathe chuye elam Purnakot oo Labangi r jongol r sparsha.

Dupur 12 ta nagad amra poucholaam Tikarpada Nature Camp ee. Gari theke namtei ekta atbhut anubhuti holo. Eetodin ja chobi te dekhechi, ekhon dhora porlo chokhe, aaro sundar hoye ... chobir thekeo sundar. Dupashe jongol r majhe pahar r dhaal ee amra namlaam Nature Camp r gate ee. Samne pahar r dhaal ee banch diye siri tairi kora hoyeche, ja giye miseche mahanadi r baluchor ee. Bistrito, sonali baluchor sesh hoyeche nodi r kole. Mahanadi ekhane bisesh chowra noy, tobe jothesto gobhir. Nodir opareo kothao dekha jaay ekirokom sonali baluchor, kothau ba nodi giye miseche, jongol bhora pahar ee. Amader samne, bali r opor besh anekkhani ghera jaygaa r modhye 12 ta sudrishya tent, 1 ta Bansh r ghor ee reception ebong office aar 1 ti bodo Dining tent - eei niye Tikarpada Nature Camp.
Office ee booking slip dekhatei amader janne dining tent r pashei 1 no. tent byabosta hoye gelo. Sunlaam aaj ke amrai prothom tourist ekhane. Camp r manush der dekhe besh hashi khushi mone holo. Tent r bhitor ee dekhlaam jathesto jaygaa. 2 ti camp khat pata aache, ekti bansh r alna, tent r kapor r sathe selai kora ekti ayna ebong 2 ti chair. Khub i samanya byabosta hote pare, kintu lokaloy theke bodu dure, nodi-pahar-jongol r majhe, emon astana na hole je manay na. Protiti tent r sathe lagoa ekti kore choto tent ee bathroom - indian style. Lakhya kore dekhlaam, nodi theke pump r sahajye direct line kora aache protiti bathroom ee. Arthat nodi te na nemeo nodi r jole chaan kora jabe bhebe besh mojai laaglo. Abashya nodi r jole nambaar upaay oo nei. Ekhane Mahanodi te prochur maach jemon aache, temni aache prochur kumir ba sthaniyo bhasay magar-matshyo.
Haat mukh dhuye fresh hoye amra berolaam charpash ta ektu ghure dekhte. Prothom eei alaap holo Raju Chauhan r sathe. Tikarpada gram r manush eei jubok Nature Camp r president. Raju bollo tara gram r 20 ti poribaar mile eei Nature Camp chalay. Ja laav hoy tar kichu ta fund ee rekhe, baki eera nijeder modhye saman bhage bhaag kore naay. Besh sundar byabosta. Raju r kachei sunlaam, ekhane r ashe pashe r gram r manush khub i gorib, mul jibika nodi te maach dhora. Kichu lok abashyo Forest department ebong jongol r thikadaar der kacheo kaaj kore.

Raju r kaache ekta mojar golpo sunlaam. Eeta raju suneche tar baba r kaache. Anekdin aage, Raju r baba jokhon choto, tokhon eei elaka te jongol chilo aaro gobhir. Tokhon eei elakar ashe pashe chilo besh kichu kagoj kol ba Paper Mill. Jongol theke banch kete sei sob paper mill ee pathabaar upaay ti chilo besh mojar. Anek banch diye banano hoto besh bodo ebong unchu bhela. Tarpor sei bhela guli ke bhasiye dewa hoto Mahanodi te. Bhela r opor manush jon oo jeto. Tara sei Bhela r opor i snaan-kahwa sarto. Nodi r shrot ee sei bhela bhaste bhaste pouche jeto gantabbe, kono tara chilo na kaaro. Tokhono to amra indur dour sikhini, tai somoy r sujog chilo khanik ta, nijer kheyal ee cholar. Ekhon oboshyo sei sob paper mill aar nei, Jongol oo ager tulonay anek kome eseche.

Raju r sathe golpo korte kortei khabar r daak eelo. Itimodhye dekhlaam ashe pashe 2-3 ti tent ee aaro kichu tourist eshe gechen. Daal, Bhaat, ekti sabji ebong Mahanodi theke tola tatka masher jhol - eei holo dupur r menu. Ekdom ghoroa, khub i sadharon, kintu ranna r gune ebong Nature Camp r manush der antarikotay eei khabar i mone holo amrito. Khub tripti kore khelaam. Emon ki salpahari Debajyoti da oo sikhar korlen je tini sabhabhik r theke khanik ta beshi i kheye felechen. Khawa-dawa sere amra thik korlaam, khanik ta bishraam niye Mahanodi te nouka-bihar ee jabo. Nature Camp theke i tourist der ghoranor janne eei byabosta kora hoyeche, 20 sitter ekti motor boat ee.

Bhorpet khabar jannei hobe, ami bodhhoy ghumiye porechilaam kichukhon r janne. Ghum bhangte dekhi 3:30 beje geche. Debajyoti da ke tent ee dekhte na peye, baire beriye elaam. Baire beriye kothao dekhte pelam na. Camp er keu kichu bolte parlo na. Hotat mone holo, nodi te namenni to !! ... ja khepa lok ... nodi te ekhane prochur kumir aache !! Tarpor mone holo, jene sune ki eeto ta bokami korben !! Edik odik khanik nijer mone ghure beralaam. Khanik pore dekhi pahar r dhaal beye, jongol r bhitor theke tini neme aschen. Bhujlaam je, Himalaya r durgaam oli-goli te jaar bichoron, take ekhon jongol r neshay peyeche, tar sathe pahar aar trecking r sujog to royeiche.

Nodi r paare, boat r kaache jokhon poucholaam, tokhon 4:30 te beje geche. Camp r lok ra bollen je, ekhon rod nei, tai boat ee kore nodi r paare rod-pohano kumir dekha jabe na. Ta dekhte hole aste hobe dupure, jokhon nodi r du parei jathesto roddur. Ta hok, tobu Mahanodi r eei gorge ee nauka bhromon ki chara jaay! Boat ee chore boslaam amra. Nodi r biporit diker pahar r khaaj ee aste aste lukiye porche surya. Akaash ee legeche astagami surye r ranga sparsha. Nilche nodir joleo jeno halka abir r r choya. Dupasher pahare jongole sobje-kalo bhaab. Prochur pakhi dekhlaam, dol bendhe nodir opor diye uure choleche jongol r dike, nijeder basay. Besh kichu jele nauka dekhlaam, saradin maach dhore feere choleche ghore. Praay ek ghanta boat ee chore Mahanodi r gorge ee bose amra dekhlaam bikal theke sandya r ek atbhut sundaar rong bodol.
Boat theke neme jokhon Camp ee firlaam tokhon sandhye neme geche. Choto choto solar aalo jole utheche Camp r charpashe. Pratyekta tent r samne dekhlaam ekti kore hurricane diye geche Camp theke. Andhyakaar r prekhyapot ee, charpash r pahar-jongol r aboyob r majhe, solar oo hurricane r salpa aaloy Camp r poribesh jeno onno ekta matra pelo. Sei aalo-adhari r modhye amra chair niye bose porlaam amader tent r baire. Ekhane protiti tent e ekti kore solar aalo r byabosta aache. Motamuti 4/5 ghanta aalo pawa jaabe.

Atbhut bhalo laagchilo sei sandya ta. Mone hochchilo jeno chena prithibi r baire chole esechi. Mobile ee tower nei, tai karo dhora chowar baire ekhon amra. Charpash pahar oo jongol diye ghera, bali r chor ee tent r baire bose achi, pashe boiche gobhir mahanodi, tar ooi pashe abar pahar oo jongol, mathar opore akaash bhora tara. Kothau chaileo jete parbo na amra ekhon, mone hochchilo anantakaal jeno ekhanei bose thakte hobe, prokiti jeno apon kore niyeche amader.
Anekhon amra chupchap bose chilaam. Tarpor, Debojyoti da hotat onar pahar r expedition r golpo sure korlen. Jomati thanda te kinchit sura sohojoge besh jome uthlo adda. Er modhye chole eelo, gorom gorom maach bhaja - bikale mahanodi theke maach tola hoyechilo, sei tatka maach. Kichukhon pore Raju eshe jog dilo amader sathe. Raju bollo aaj sandye bela purnakot theke ekta hati r paal labangi r dike geche, tai kaal amader uchit hobe prothom ee labangi r jongol ee jawa. Raju r sathe katha bole thik korlaam, agamikaal prothom ee labangi r jongol ghure tarpor amra hatigirja oo bhimgada falls dekhte jabo.

Golpe golpe anek raat hoye gelo. Raat ee ruti oo murgir jhol kheye tent r bhitor ee dhuklam. Din ee roder taape bhujte pari ni, ekhon dekhchi tent r bhitor oo besh thanda. Eke december r sesh, tao amar bon-pahar ghera jaygaa, nodi r dhar ee thanda hoya tai swabhabik. Bilamba na kore amra lep r tolay asroy nilam, ebong ek ghum eei raat kabar.

Sakal ee prochur pakhir daak ee ghum bhenge gelo. Gorom jama-kapor pore baire beriye dekhi, pub akashe lalche choya laagche, aste aste uthche dinmoni. Prochur pakhi charipash ee, bon r gache gache. Nodir dhare dekhlam besh kichu River Tern oo Maachranga. Er modhyei dekhlaam Debajyoti da kokhon uthe Sunrise r chobi tule byasto hoye porechen. Sotti khub sundar, tartaja laagche charipash. Dupasher bon-pahar nodi, andhakaar r aboyob theke aste aste sobuj r saaje fute uthche.

Aaj amader jongol bhraman. Tai deri na kore 7:30 r modhye amra tairi hoye nilam. Tarpor 8 tar modhye breakfast kore amra beriye porlaam Labangi r uddeshye. Firte deri hote pare, tai sathe kichu jol oo sukhna khabar niye nilam. Dupash r khet, kaach-e-dure pahar r saari, majhe majhe lokaloy oo jongol - er modhye diye amader gari chute chollo, purnakot periye labangi r pathe. Labangi r joto kaache aste laaglaam, aranya r sparsha pete laaglam. Beshir bhaag i dekhchi harjai oo parnamochi jongol edike. Sal, Siris, Asan, Mohua, Sishu - eei sob gaach r pradhanya chokhe porte laaglo. Purnakot forest office theke amader sathe ekjon guide dewa hoyechilo. Manoranjan alpa boyeshi, hashi-khushi chele. Eei jongol pahar eei se bodo hoyeche. Tar kachei sunlaam - Baagh charao eei jongol ee pawa jai - Haati, Bison, Leopard, Sambar, Spotted deer, Barking deer, Chousingha, Mouse deer, Wild pig, Common langur ebong Wild Dog ba Dhol.
Aste aste jongol ghono hote suru korlo. Dupasher jongol jeno majher path tuku r astitto shajya korte parche na. Opore chandratop r shristi koreche. Anek jaygaa tei suryer aalo eshe pouchay na. Kichukhon por gari aste aste pahar ee uuthte arombho korlo. Dupashe prochur banch r jongol dekhte pelam. Gari aste aste uuthche, emon somoy hotat ki ekta janwar khormor sabda kore pasher jongol beye khaad ee neme gelo. Ekjholok dekhlaam - Sambor. Kichukhon pore pahar r opore eshe poucholaam. Besh anekkhani sobuj trinabhumi ekhane. Majhe majhe ekhane okhane kichu bodo gaach ebong kichu kalo pathar r tila. Amra ekhane gari theke namlaam, ektu jongol r ghran buk bhore nite. Amader Guide Manoranjan abshya baron korlo beshi dure paye hete na jete.

Charipashe kotorokom je jhopjhar. Muturi, Giliri, Shiyari lata oo ful r jhop. kichu dure jekhan e trinabhumi giye misheche jongol ee, besh kotogulo Amlaki gaach dekhlaam - jhuru jhuru pata jhora tader sesh hoye geche tokhon. Besh khanikhon amra chupchap bose roilam pahar r kole, jongol r majhe. Uthbo uthbo bhabchi, emon somoy Manoranjan r ishara te dekhi, dure Amlaki gaach gulor tolay ek dol Chital horin beriye eseche jongol r araal theke. Tar modhye koektir mathay bodo bodo sing. Segulo prohori r moto dariye royeche edik odik. Aami uuthejito hoye photo tolar janne egiye jete giye sabda kore fellam ebong chokher nimeshe dol ti durdar kore dhuke gelo jongol r araal ee - sobuj r andhakaar ee.
Mone khanik aapsosh niye gari te uuthlaam. Pahar theke neme abar jongol r path dhorlaam. Ekjaay Manoranjan gari thamiye dekhalo, ekta gaach ee besh koekta hornbill baa dhonesh pakhi. Hotat duto nil-ronga rock pegion amader samne pather opor eshe boslo. Bhari sundar dekhte pakhigulo - nilche-sobje rong. Eei jongol satti poshu, pakhi oo gachgachali r boichitre bhora. Seet r sokal r ekta gondho uuthche jongol r gaa theke. Thik bole bojhate parbo na, kintu besh nesha dhoriye daay.

Jongol r pathe amader pashe pashe ekhon choleche ekti choto nodi. Ek ek jaygaay nodi r ek ek chehara. Kothau sudhu bali, kothau sudhu pathar, kothau sudhui baa chayay joma gobhir jol. Tar charpash ee pathar ee syaola dhore aache, nana rokom orchid gojiyeche gaach r guri theke. Aaro kichudur jawar por amra eshe porlaam ekta nuni te. Jongol r kichu kichu jaygaa te mati te nun thake. Kothau ba Forest Dept theke mati te nun mishiye day. Trinobhoji janwaar ra ashe sei nun chatte. Aar tader pichon pichon taader dhorte ashe baagh. Amader oboshyo temon kichu dekhar soubhagya holo na. Besh khanikkhon nuni r kaach ee gaach r chaya te bose katiye amra ebar chollam Hatigirja r dike.
Edik er jongol er cheharao eki rokom, tobe banch jhar beshi. Hatigirja er Watch Tower ti besh sundar dekhte. Samne ekti jolasoy ee besh toltole sobje jol. Jolasoy ghire banch jhar oo bodo bodo gaach r jongol saradin much dekhche jol r aarshi te. Watch Tower r barandaay bose anek ta somoy katiye dilam. Majhe majhe domka hawa dichche banc her bon ee sonson awaaz tule. Ekta maachranga jol r dhare jeno dyane bose aache, maach dhorar ashay. Gaach r faak diye roddur jolasoy r dole apon kheyale ajashra akibuki keteche. Debajyoti da photo tulte byasto chilen. Amar bodhhoy ekbhabe bose thakte thakte ghor lege gechilo. Manoranjan r daake sombit feere peye dekhi 2 ta beje geche. Amader gari chalak Abdul oo Manoranjan r sathe katha bole bujhlaam ekhon Tulka baa Baghmunda jete gele firte firte sandhya periye jabe, tachara rastao kharap. Mon ta ektu kharap hoye gelo. Tarpor bhablaam, eei jongol oo pahar ke upobhog korte hole somoy dite hobe, matra 1/2 din ee ta sambhab noy. Ebar nahoy swad niye gelam, porer baar eshe somoy niye upobhog kore jabo. Gari ferar path dhorlo, jongol periye, gram, khet periye, Tikarpada Nature Camp r dike.

Camp ee feere 4 ter somoy lunch sarlaam amra. Ekdol tourist dekhlaam nodi r kaache bhir koreche boating janne. Amra dujon ee ektu niribili te ekpashe nodi r chor ee bali r opor giye boslaam. Seetkaal r sonali norom bela pore asche. Gachgachali r gaye ekta halka abcha sonali abha legeche. Nodi r opor diye hotat dekhi ekjaak pakhi uure choleche. Rongin akaash r prekhyapot ee, astamito suryer ranga abha tader sada danay jeno rong lagiyeche. Aste aste uure tara miliye gelo nodi jekhane baank niyeche dui paharer majhe.

Sandhya naamte amra feere elam Camp r bhitor. Aaj camp theke camp fire r byabosta koreche. Anyanya tourist ra eshe bhir korechen sekhane. Khanikhon aagun r dhare giye boslaam gaa gorom korte. Aaj seet tai jeno beshi laagche. Nodi r buke ghono kuasha jomeche itimodhyei. 2 ti poribaar r sathe alaap holo. Kolkata r manush. Notun jaygaa r khobor peye poribaar somet esechen niribili te chuti katate. Katha bole mone holo na jongol bhraman ee temon utshaho. Sobai mile tara gaan-golpe mete uthechen.

Amra sore eshe amader tent r samne boslaam. Pichon er pahar gulo ke andhakaar e jeno haati r pith r moto mone hochche. Sara akaash ee jhikimiki ashankya tara. Tara gulo kaapche, odero bodhhoy khub seet korche. Aaj abar purnima. Kichukhon pore pichon er dui paharer faak theke uuthlo sei chand. Dupasher bon-pahar jeno dheke gelo rupali chadare. Nodi r jole jeno kono adrishya jodukar rupa gule diyeche. Du pahar er majhe nodi jekhane baank niye hariye geche chokher araal ee, sedike takiye dekhi ghono kuasha r chador ee chander aalo jeno atbhut ek indrajaal rochona koreche. Mone hochche jeno ooi aboron er opare lukono aache onno ek jagat. Tonmoy hoye roilaam amra prokitir eei mayar khelay.
Kaal sokale amader ferar pala. Eei 2 din r bhramon jeno notun kore pran sanchar korlo. Banya prani darshaan hoyto holo na, besh kichu jaygaa dekhao hoye uuthlo na somoy er ababhe. Tobu ja pelam tai ba kom ki. Diner bibhinyo somoy pahar, nodi er koto rong bodol, jongol er sobuj alingon, aar ekhon eei jyosna-snato mayabi raat. Satti saat ronge jeno mon rangiye dilo eei Satkosia. Mone mone bollam -

“Tumi amay dekhechile chutir nimontrone,
Tokhon chilem bohudure, kisher anneshone!
Kule jokhon elem feere, tokhon asta shikhar seer ee,
Chailo robi sesh chawa tar, kanak chapar bone,
Amar chuti furiye geche, kokhon aanmone!”

Sedin amra anek raat obdi baire bose galpa korechilaam. Keno jani na, ooi thanda r modhyeo tent er bhitor ee jete mon chaichilo na. Mone mone katha dichchilam – abar feere asbo.