Saat ronge Satkosia

SATKOSIA .... Orissa r Angul sohor theke jete hoy. Ekhono temon porichito noy porjotok mohole. Ki aache sekhane? ..... Ek sathe ekta jaygaay pawa jabe - jongol, pahar, nodi, banya-prani aar prakriti.
Anekdin dhore ekhane jawar ichcha thakleo, nana karone hoye oothe ni. Ebar tai ekrokom jor korei, ami aar Debojyoti da (Pather Katha r), dujone beriye porlaam. 1st Jan'2010 raat ee Madras Mail dhore pordin sakale Cuttak. Sekhan theke Bus dhore Angul r kaache Nalco. Sekhan theke 2 din r janne ekti gari niye beriye porlaam, Angul theke 60 Km durer Satkosia.
Mahanadi pray 7 krosh path du pasher jongol bhora pahar r majkhan diye gobhir Gorge tairi kore boye geche. Tarpor Cuttack r kaache eshe prasarito hoyeche, sagar e bilin hoyar aage. Eei 7 krosh mahanadir gorge aar du-pasher jongol bhora pahar mile shristi hoyeche ek apurba prakiti, jaa jib-baichitre jathesto samridhyo.

Angul, Nayagarh oo Boudh - eei 3 ti jela te bistrito Satkosia Gorge Wildlife Sanctuary. Er bistriti pray 745 sq. km. Mahanadi r eei gorge eei jongol modhye diye, du pasher paharer modhye diye boye geche 22.5 km/14 miles, arthat 7 krosh path - Binkei theke Bodmul. Tai naam Satkosia. 2005 saal ee eei Tiger Reserve r shiropa paay. Labangi, Baghmunda, Tulka namer gobhir jongolguli eei sanctuary r antarbhukta.
Tikarpada, Mahanadi r baam tirborti ekti sundar, chimcham gram, Purnakot police station ebong Angul jela r antarbhukta. Mahanadi r eei gorge r soundarya sobtheke beshi upobhog kora jaay eei Tikarpada thekei. Eei Gram er 20 ti poribaar mile, Forest Department r sahajye, 4/5 bochor aage ekhane ekti Nature Camping r byabosta suru koren, nijer rooti-ruji r upaay hisebe.

Angul sohor chariye gari ektu egotei, amra sohor theke sobuj er majhe eshe porlaam. Du pashe khet ee sobe dhaan kata hoyeche, sorshe khet ee jeno sona choriye diyeche keu, dure pahar oo jongol r haatchani. Eei bhabe 1.5 ghanta cholar por amra eshe porlaam Satkosia Wildlife Sanctuary r probesh daare. Kolkata theke fax marfaat aagei Tikarpara Nature Camp ee thakar ebong Jongol ee ghorar anumati r janne abedaan kore rekhechilaam. Fax r copy dekhatei Anumati patra ebong booking slip peye gelam. Ekhan theke aaro 45 min gari niye egotei pouche gelam Tikarpada. Ashar pathe chuye elam Purnakot oo Labangi r jongol r sparsha.

Dupur 12 ta nagad amra poucholaam Tikarpada Nature Camp ee. Gari theke namtei ekta atbhut anubhuti holo. Eetodin ja chobi te dekhechi, ekhon dhora porlo chokhe, aaro sundar hoye ... chobir thekeo sundar. Dupashe jongol r majhe pahar r dhaal ee amra namlaam Nature Camp r gate ee. Samne pahar r dhaal ee banch diye siri tairi kora hoyeche, ja giye miseche mahanadi r baluchor ee. Bistrito, sonali baluchor sesh hoyeche nodi r kole. Mahanadi ekhane bisesh chowra noy, tobe jothesto gobhir. Nodir opareo kothao dekha jaay ekirokom sonali baluchor, kothau ba nodi giye miseche, jongol bhora pahar ee. Amader samne, bali r opor besh anekkhani ghera jaygaa r modhye 12 ta sudrishya tent, 1 ta Bansh r ghor ee reception ebong office aar 1 ti bodo Dining tent - eei niye Tikarpada Nature Camp.
Office ee booking slip dekhatei amader janne dining tent r pashei 1 no. tent byabosta hoye gelo. Sunlaam aaj ke amrai prothom tourist ekhane. Camp r manush der dekhe besh hashi khushi mone holo. Tent r bhitor ee dekhlaam jathesto jaygaa. 2 ti camp khat pata aache, ekti bansh r alna, tent r kapor r sathe selai kora ekti ayna ebong 2 ti chair. Khub i samanya byabosta hote pare, kintu lokaloy theke bodu dure, nodi-pahar-jongol r majhe, emon astana na hole je manay na. Protiti tent r sathe lagoa ekti kore choto tent ee bathroom - indian style. Lakhya kore dekhlaam, nodi theke pump r sahajye direct line kora aache protiti bathroom ee. Arthat nodi te na nemeo nodi r jole chaan kora jabe bhebe besh mojai laaglo. Abashya nodi r jole nambaar upaay oo nei. Ekhane Mahanodi te prochur maach jemon aache, temni aache prochur kumir ba sthaniyo bhasay magar-matshyo.
Haat mukh dhuye fresh hoye amra berolaam charpash ta ektu ghure dekhte. Prothom eei alaap holo Raju Chauhan r sathe. Tikarpada gram r manush eei jubok Nature Camp r president. Raju bollo tara gram r 20 ti poribaar mile eei Nature Camp chalay. Ja laav hoy tar kichu ta fund ee rekhe, baki eera nijeder modhye saman bhage bhaag kore naay. Besh sundar byabosta. Raju r kachei sunlaam, ekhane r ashe pashe r gram r manush khub i gorib, mul jibika nodi te maach dhora. Kichu lok abashyo Forest department ebong jongol r thikadaar der kacheo kaaj kore.

Raju r kaache ekta mojar golpo sunlaam. Eeta raju suneche tar baba r kaache. Anekdin aage, Raju r baba jokhon choto, tokhon eei elaka te jongol chilo aaro gobhir. Tokhon eei elakar ashe pashe chilo besh kichu kagoj kol ba Paper Mill. Jongol theke banch kete sei sob paper mill ee pathabaar upaay ti chilo besh mojar. Anek banch diye banano hoto besh bodo ebong unchu bhela. Tarpor sei bhela guli ke bhasiye dewa hoto Mahanodi te. Bhela r opor manush jon oo jeto. Tara sei Bhela r opor i snaan-kahwa sarto. Nodi r shrot ee sei bhela bhaste bhaste pouche jeto gantabbe, kono tara chilo na kaaro. Tokhono to amra indur dour sikhini, tai somoy r sujog chilo khanik ta, nijer kheyal ee cholar. Ekhon oboshyo sei sob paper mill aar nei, Jongol oo ager tulonay anek kome eseche.

Raju r sathe golpo korte kortei khabar r daak eelo. Itimodhye dekhlaam ashe pashe 2-3 ti tent ee aaro kichu tourist eshe gechen. Daal, Bhaat, ekti sabji ebong Mahanodi theke tola tatka masher jhol - eei holo dupur r menu. Ekdom ghoroa, khub i sadharon, kintu ranna r gune ebong Nature Camp r manush der antarikotay eei khabar i mone holo amrito. Khub tripti kore khelaam. Emon ki salpahari Debajyoti da oo sikhar korlen je tini sabhabhik r theke khanik ta beshi i kheye felechen. Khawa-dawa sere amra thik korlaam, khanik ta bishraam niye Mahanodi te nouka-bihar ee jabo. Nature Camp theke i tourist der ghoranor janne eei byabosta kora hoyeche, 20 sitter ekti motor boat ee.

Bhorpet khabar jannei hobe, ami bodhhoy ghumiye porechilaam kichukhon r janne. Ghum bhangte dekhi 3:30 beje geche. Debajyoti da ke tent ee dekhte na peye, baire beriye elaam. Baire beriye kothao dekhte pelam na. Camp er keu kichu bolte parlo na. Hotat mone holo, nodi te namenni to !! ... ja khepa lok ... nodi te ekhane prochur kumir aache !! Tarpor mone holo, jene sune ki eeto ta bokami korben !! Edik odik khanik nijer mone ghure beralaam. Khanik pore dekhi pahar r dhaal beye, jongol r bhitor theke tini neme aschen. Bhujlaam je, Himalaya r durgaam oli-goli te jaar bichoron, take ekhon jongol r neshay peyeche, tar sathe pahar aar trecking r sujog to royeiche.

Nodi r paare, boat r kaache jokhon poucholaam, tokhon 4:30 te beje geche. Camp r lok ra bollen je, ekhon rod nei, tai boat ee kore nodi r paare rod-pohano kumir dekha jabe na. Ta dekhte hole aste hobe dupure, jokhon nodi r du parei jathesto roddur. Ta hok, tobu Mahanodi r eei gorge ee nauka bhromon ki chara jaay! Boat ee chore boslaam amra. Nodi r biporit diker pahar r khaaj ee aste aste lukiye porche surya. Akaash ee legeche astagami surye r ranga sparsha. Nilche nodir joleo jeno halka abir r r choya. Dupasher pahare jongole sobje-kalo bhaab. Prochur pakhi dekhlaam, dol bendhe nodir opor diye uure choleche jongol r dike, nijeder basay. Besh kichu jele nauka dekhlaam, saradin maach dhore feere choleche ghore. Praay ek ghanta boat ee chore Mahanodi r gorge ee bose amra dekhlaam bikal theke sandya r ek atbhut sundaar rong bodol.
Boat theke neme jokhon Camp ee firlaam tokhon sandhye neme geche. Choto choto solar aalo jole utheche Camp r charpashe. Pratyekta tent r samne dekhlaam ekti kore hurricane diye geche Camp theke. Andhyakaar r prekhyapot ee, charpash r pahar-jongol r aboyob r majhe, solar oo hurricane r salpa aaloy Camp r poribesh jeno onno ekta matra pelo. Sei aalo-adhari r modhye amra chair niye bose porlaam amader tent r baire. Ekhane protiti tent e ekti kore solar aalo r byabosta aache. Motamuti 4/5 ghanta aalo pawa jaabe.

Atbhut bhalo laagchilo sei sandya ta. Mone hochchilo jeno chena prithibi r baire chole esechi. Mobile ee tower nei, tai karo dhora chowar baire ekhon amra. Charpash pahar oo jongol diye ghera, bali r chor ee tent r baire bose achi, pashe boiche gobhir mahanodi, tar ooi pashe abar pahar oo jongol, mathar opore akaash bhora tara. Kothau chaileo jete parbo na amra ekhon, mone hochchilo anantakaal jeno ekhanei bose thakte hobe, prokiti jeno apon kore niyeche amader.
Anekhon amra chupchap bose chilaam. Tarpor, Debojyoti da hotat onar pahar r expedition r golpo sure korlen. Jomati thanda te kinchit sura sohojoge besh jome uthlo adda. Er modhye chole eelo, gorom gorom maach bhaja - bikale mahanodi theke maach tola hoyechilo, sei tatka maach. Kichukhon pore Raju eshe jog dilo amader sathe. Raju bollo aaj sandye bela purnakot theke ekta hati r paal labangi r dike geche, tai kaal amader uchit hobe prothom ee labangi r jongol ee jawa. Raju r sathe katha bole thik korlaam, agamikaal prothom ee labangi r jongol ghure tarpor amra hatigirja oo bhimgada falls dekhte jabo.

Golpe golpe anek raat hoye gelo. Raat ee ruti oo murgir jhol kheye tent r bhitor ee dhuklam. Din ee roder taape bhujte pari ni, ekhon dekhchi tent r bhitor oo besh thanda. Eke december r sesh, tao amar bon-pahar ghera jaygaa, nodi r dhar ee thanda hoya tai swabhabik. Bilamba na kore amra lep r tolay asroy nilam, ebong ek ghum eei raat kabar.

Sakal ee prochur pakhir daak ee ghum bhenge gelo. Gorom jama-kapor pore baire beriye dekhi, pub akashe lalche choya laagche, aste aste uthche dinmoni. Prochur pakhi charipash ee, bon r gache gache. Nodir dhare dekhlam besh kichu River Tern oo Maachranga. Er modhyei dekhlaam Debajyoti da kokhon uthe Sunrise r chobi tule byasto hoye porechen. Sotti khub sundar, tartaja laagche charipash. Dupasher bon-pahar nodi, andhakaar r aboyob theke aste aste sobuj r saaje fute uthche.

Aaj amader jongol bhraman. Tai deri na kore 7:30 r modhye amra tairi hoye nilam. Tarpor 8 tar modhye breakfast kore amra beriye porlaam Labangi r uddeshye. Firte deri hote pare, tai sathe kichu jol oo sukhna khabar niye nilam. Dupash r khet, kaach-e-dure pahar r saari, majhe majhe lokaloy oo jongol - er modhye diye amader gari chute chollo, purnakot periye labangi r pathe. Labangi r joto kaache aste laaglaam, aranya r sparsha pete laaglam. Beshir bhaag i dekhchi harjai oo parnamochi jongol edike. Sal, Siris, Asan, Mohua, Sishu - eei sob gaach r pradhanya chokhe porte laaglo. Purnakot forest office theke amader sathe ekjon guide dewa hoyechilo. Manoranjan alpa boyeshi, hashi-khushi chele. Eei jongol pahar eei se bodo hoyeche. Tar kachei sunlaam - Baagh charao eei jongol ee pawa jai - Haati, Bison, Leopard, Sambar, Spotted deer, Barking deer, Chousingha, Mouse deer, Wild pig, Common langur ebong Wild Dog ba Dhol.
Aste aste jongol ghono hote suru korlo. Dupasher jongol jeno majher path tuku r astitto shajya korte parche na. Opore chandratop r shristi koreche. Anek jaygaa tei suryer aalo eshe pouchay na. Kichukhon por gari aste aste pahar ee uuthte arombho korlo. Dupashe prochur banch r jongol dekhte pelam. Gari aste aste uuthche, emon somoy hotat ki ekta janwar khormor sabda kore pasher jongol beye khaad ee neme gelo. Ekjholok dekhlaam - Sambor. Kichukhon pore pahar r opore eshe poucholaam. Besh anekkhani sobuj trinabhumi ekhane. Majhe majhe ekhane okhane kichu bodo gaach ebong kichu kalo pathar r tila. Amra ekhane gari theke namlaam, ektu jongol r ghran buk bhore nite. Amader Guide Manoranjan abshya baron korlo beshi dure paye hete na jete.

Charipashe kotorokom je jhopjhar. Muturi, Giliri, Shiyari lata oo ful r jhop. kichu dure jekhan e trinabhumi giye misheche jongol ee, besh kotogulo Amlaki gaach dekhlaam - jhuru jhuru pata jhora tader sesh hoye geche tokhon. Besh khanikhon amra chupchap bose roilam pahar r kole, jongol r majhe. Uthbo uthbo bhabchi, emon somoy Manoranjan r ishara te dekhi, dure Amlaki gaach gulor tolay ek dol Chital horin beriye eseche jongol r araal theke. Tar modhye koektir mathay bodo bodo sing. Segulo prohori r moto dariye royeche edik odik. Aami uuthejito hoye photo tolar janne egiye jete giye sabda kore fellam ebong chokher nimeshe dol ti durdar kore dhuke gelo jongol r araal ee - sobuj r andhakaar ee.
Mone khanik aapsosh niye gari te uuthlaam. Pahar theke neme abar jongol r path dhorlaam. Ekjaay Manoranjan gari thamiye dekhalo, ekta gaach ee besh koekta hornbill baa dhonesh pakhi. Hotat duto nil-ronga rock pegion amader samne pather opor eshe boslo. Bhari sundar dekhte pakhigulo - nilche-sobje rong. Eei jongol satti poshu, pakhi oo gachgachali r boichitre bhora. Seet r sokal r ekta gondho uuthche jongol r gaa theke. Thik bole bojhate parbo na, kintu besh nesha dhoriye daay.

Jongol r pathe amader pashe pashe ekhon choleche ekti choto nodi. Ek ek jaygaay nodi r ek ek chehara. Kothau sudhu bali, kothau sudhu pathar, kothau sudhui baa chayay joma gobhir jol. Tar charpash ee pathar ee syaola dhore aache, nana rokom orchid gojiyeche gaach r guri theke. Aaro kichudur jawar por amra eshe porlaam ekta nuni te. Jongol r kichu kichu jaygaa te mati te nun thake. Kothau ba Forest Dept theke mati te nun mishiye day. Trinobhoji janwaar ra ashe sei nun chatte. Aar tader pichon pichon taader dhorte ashe baagh. Amader oboshyo temon kichu dekhar soubhagya holo na. Besh khanikkhon nuni r kaach ee gaach r chaya te bose katiye amra ebar chollam Hatigirja r dike.
Edik er jongol er cheharao eki rokom, tobe banch jhar beshi. Hatigirja er Watch Tower ti besh sundar dekhte. Samne ekti jolasoy ee besh toltole sobje jol. Jolasoy ghire banch jhar oo bodo bodo gaach r jongol saradin much dekhche jol r aarshi te. Watch Tower r barandaay bose anek ta somoy katiye dilam. Majhe majhe domka hawa dichche banc her bon ee sonson awaaz tule. Ekta maachranga jol r dhare jeno dyane bose aache, maach dhorar ashay. Gaach r faak diye roddur jolasoy r dole apon kheyale ajashra akibuki keteche. Debajyoti da photo tulte byasto chilen. Amar bodhhoy ekbhabe bose thakte thakte ghor lege gechilo. Manoranjan r daake sombit feere peye dekhi 2 ta beje geche. Amader gari chalak Abdul oo Manoranjan r sathe katha bole bujhlaam ekhon Tulka baa Baghmunda jete gele firte firte sandhya periye jabe, tachara rastao kharap. Mon ta ektu kharap hoye gelo. Tarpor bhablaam, eei jongol oo pahar ke upobhog korte hole somoy dite hobe, matra 1/2 din ee ta sambhab noy. Ebar nahoy swad niye gelam, porer baar eshe somoy niye upobhog kore jabo. Gari ferar path dhorlo, jongol periye, gram, khet periye, Tikarpada Nature Camp r dike.

Camp ee feere 4 ter somoy lunch sarlaam amra. Ekdol tourist dekhlaam nodi r kaache bhir koreche boating janne. Amra dujon ee ektu niribili te ekpashe nodi r chor ee bali r opor giye boslaam. Seetkaal r sonali norom bela pore asche. Gachgachali r gaye ekta halka abcha sonali abha legeche. Nodi r opor diye hotat dekhi ekjaak pakhi uure choleche. Rongin akaash r prekhyapot ee, astamito suryer ranga abha tader sada danay jeno rong lagiyeche. Aste aste uure tara miliye gelo nodi jekhane baank niyeche dui paharer majhe.

Sandhya naamte amra feere elam Camp r bhitor. Aaj camp theke camp fire r byabosta koreche. Anyanya tourist ra eshe bhir korechen sekhane. Khanikhon aagun r dhare giye boslaam gaa gorom korte. Aaj seet tai jeno beshi laagche. Nodi r buke ghono kuasha jomeche itimodhyei. 2 ti poribaar r sathe alaap holo. Kolkata r manush. Notun jaygaa r khobor peye poribaar somet esechen niribili te chuti katate. Katha bole mone holo na jongol bhraman ee temon utshaho. Sobai mile tara gaan-golpe mete uthechen.

Amra sore eshe amader tent r samne boslaam. Pichon er pahar gulo ke andhakaar e jeno haati r pith r moto mone hochche. Sara akaash ee jhikimiki ashankya tara. Tara gulo kaapche, odero bodhhoy khub seet korche. Aaj abar purnima. Kichukhon pore pichon er dui paharer faak theke uuthlo sei chand. Dupasher bon-pahar jeno dheke gelo rupali chadare. Nodi r jole jeno kono adrishya jodukar rupa gule diyeche. Du pahar er majhe nodi jekhane baank niye hariye geche chokher araal ee, sedike takiye dekhi ghono kuasha r chador ee chander aalo jeno atbhut ek indrajaal rochona koreche. Mone hochche jeno ooi aboron er opare lukono aache onno ek jagat. Tonmoy hoye roilaam amra prokitir eei mayar khelay.
Kaal sokale amader ferar pala. Eei 2 din r bhramon jeno notun kore pran sanchar korlo. Banya prani darshaan hoyto holo na, besh kichu jaygaa dekhao hoye uuthlo na somoy er ababhe. Tobu ja pelam tai ba kom ki. Diner bibhinyo somoy pahar, nodi er koto rong bodol, jongol er sobuj alingon, aar ekhon eei jyosna-snato mayabi raat. Satti saat ronge jeno mon rangiye dilo eei Satkosia. Mone mone bollam -

“Tumi amay dekhechile chutir nimontrone,
Tokhon chilem bohudure, kisher anneshone!
Kule jokhon elem feere, tokhon asta shikhar seer ee,
Chailo robi sesh chawa tar, kanak chapar bone,
Amar chuti furiye geche, kokhon aanmone!”

Sedin amra anek raat obdi baire bose galpa korechilaam. Keno jani na, ooi thanda r modhyeo tent er bhitor ee jete mon chaichilo na. Mone mone katha dichchilam – abar feere asbo.

Bon Paharer Deshe

Kothay jabo bhabte bhabte hotat duto notun jaygaar sandhaan peye gelam. Amader Uttar Banger paharer kol geshe obostito jaygaa duti holo - Reshi oo Aritar. Ekti bangla oo sikim er simante ebong onno ti Sikim er Rhenock er kache. Uttar Bange aaro ekti sundaar jaygaa aache Kalimpong er kache - Pedong. Pedong obostito Old Silk Route ee. Sudur otite tibbot theke reshom byabshar chalachal er pathe. Pedong er ashe pashe anek sundaar jaygaa ache jaar khobor anekei rakhen na. Rishi aar Aritar theke Pedong beshi dureo noy. Pedong theke Reshi 15 km. aar Reshi theke Aritar 14 km. Amra 4 bandhu tai thik korlaam eksathe ghure asbo - Reshi-Pedong-Aritaar. Bon Paharer deshe, pakdondi pather dhare, lukono jaygaar gopon soundaryer khoje, amader yatra suru holo 22 December, 2007. Somoy ta purnimar kacha kachi.
Volvo Bus ee Kolkata theke Siliguri te neme Sikim Transport er office theke share jeep ee kore pouche gelam Bangla oo Sikim er simanta sohor Rongpo te. Kolkata thekei katha bole niye chilaam Sebastian Pradhan er sathe. Eni Rishi, Pedong oo Aritaar ee Eco Tourism development eer janne sthaniyo lok der niye kaaj korchen. Rongpo theke gari niye pouche gelam Reshi. Rasta Reshi er kachakachi khub ii kharap. Offbeat jaygaa bole ekhono ekhane tourism temon popular hoyni aar sei jannei Rasta, Bidyut esob ekhono temon develop koreni.
Reshi nodir dhare obostito Reshi gram. Reshi nodir ekpaare Bangla, opor paare Sikim. Reshi gram banglay obostito. Sikim er dik diye dhuke, gari nodir paare rekhe, nodir opor basher setu diye pouchate hoy Reshi Gram. Du dike jotodur chokh jaay sobuje bhara pahar, majhkhan diye Reshi nodi boye geche, hariye geche dure paharer fanke. Aar sei nodir dhare, unmukto prakitir majhe, chobir moto sundaar Reshi gram, jaa ekhon Sebastian der Eco Tourism Village. Ekhane ekhono bidyut eshe pouchayni. Amra pouchanor sathe sathe Sebastian nije amader janalen antarik abbarthana. Gram er bhitor ta sundar bagan kore sajano aar tar ii majhe majhe baanch aar kath diye tairi choto choto cottage. Paharer kole, emon eek gramya oo bonyo paribeshe ekti raat katabo - eei bhabnay mon khushi te bhore uuthlo. Reshi er paare dariye, Reshi nodi, chari diker bon-pahar oo nodir kole chotto Reshi Gram er dike takiye thakle, mon jeno prokitir kole hariye jaay.
Dimer jhol aar bhaat diye dupurer khawa sere amra Sebastian er meye Tracy er sathe gelam Reshi nodir paare. Tracy amader niye chollo ektu dure, jongoler modhye diye, jekhane nodi te jol khanik ta gobhir. Jole paa dubiye sara sorir kepe oothlo. Bhison thanda jol, kintu kichukhon dariye theke thanda da soye gelo. Nodir paare bosei dekhlaam, megh mukto neel akashe, nodir jol rangiye diye, dui pasher bon-paharer fanke asta gelo Rabi. Seet er sandhya namte, amra feere elam Reshi Gram ee.
Gram ee fire dekhi bon-fire er ayojon hochche. Ashepasher jongol theke kath kete eene joro kora hoyeche. Besh bodo kore aagun jalano hole amra aagun ghire bose porlaam. Sebastian er sathe gram eer aaro koekjon eshe amader sathe jog dilo. Totokhone sandya neme geche. Akashe Dadashir chaand. Chaander aloy rupali jhilik diye, kolodhani tule boye choleche Reshi nodi. Dui pasher bon-pahar chand-bhashi. Aar sei bon-paharer deshe, agun jele bose, amra koekjon sohure manush, amader jiboner ekti swaraniyo raat katachchi. Eei anubhuti bhasay byakto kora jaay na. Anekhkhon amra sei taray bhora khola akasher niche, goplo aar gaan diye katiye dilam. Raate deshi murgir jhol aar roti diye aati sushadu khabar kheye, giye boslaam nodir paare. Jyosnar alok snato raate, nodir paare patharer opor bose, anekta somoy katiye dilam amra 4 bandhu.
Pordin sakale oothe, haat-mukh dhuye, boner path diye, reshi nodi ke pashe rekhe anekta beriye eelam. Meghmukta nil akashe, siter misti roddur gaye lagiye, boner pathe beranor ekta onno rokom anubhuti. Charidike prochur pakhir kolokakali, buno fuler gandha, snigdha nodir nirob soundarye mon bhoriye niye, ebar amra beriye porlaam amader agami gantabye. Pedong pouche uuthlaam, Pedong sohor er ektu barite obostito Sebastian er guest house ee. Guest house ti ekhono puropuri tairi hoyni. Chaader khanik ta angshe 4 te ghor niye thakar byabosta. Baki chaad ta ekhono faka. Sekhane darale, daan dike pedong sahar, baam dike bon-paharer faank diye chokhe pore Kanchanjangha aar ulta dike dekha jaay paharer kole sajano Kalimpong sohor. Cha kheye amra beriye porlaam, Pedong er ashe pasher kichu alpa porichito jaygaa ghure dekhte.
Pedong sohor theke 10 km. dure, uuchu pahari path beye pouchate hoy Ramitey View Point. Eei rastay trek kore jawao jaay. Bone dhaka paharer majh diye, pakhir daak aar sakaler sisir bheja boner gandhe, eei path chola khub ii shriti-madhur. Tatka batashe mon-pran taja hoye oothe. View Point er kichu aage gari rekhe khanik ta here oothte hoy. View Point ee pouche, hotat mone holo jeno chokher samne theke jeno ekta parda uthe gelo. Samne 180 degree sudhu deu khelano pahar digante miliye geche. Niche dekha jaay pashchim theke pube bistrito Teesta. Paharer faanke faanke megher khela, aar tar majhkhane dekha jaay Kanchanjangha. Nil akashe shet-subhra borofer mukut pore digonte bistrito. Surjer aloy jhokmok korche tar borofer mukut. Daan dike dekhte pawa jaay Jeleep La(Pass). Niche daan dike dekha jachche Sikim er Rongpo sohor ebong paharer dhape dhape sobuj Cha-Bagan. Jana chilo na amader, uttar banger paharer kole lukono aache emon ek jaygaa, jekhane ekti paharer simanay dariye samne takale, chokher samne bheshe oothe, tuli diye aanka chobir moto, pahar, nodi aar megher somonyoye emon aparthibo drishyapot. Bak-rudhdha hoye amra takiye roilaam. Sudhu mone hote laaglo -- "Kirito dharini tushar shringhe, sobuje sajano tomar desh * tomar upama tumi je maa, tomar ruper nahi ko sesh".

Anekkhon pore amra aste aste neme elam. Ferar pathe dekhlaam, paharer kole, boner majhe sundaar Sillery Village ebong tar pashe aaro kichuta egiye Silent Valley. Paharer ekti khanje, bodo bodo gache ghera khanik ta faka jaygaa Silent Valley. Kono jono-bosoti nei. Kichukhon chup kore darale mone hobe prthibir baire kothao chole esechi. Kono sabda nei, atbhut eek nishtabdhata cheye aache charidike. Sudhu sona jaay batasher sabda. Chupchap sekhane khanikta somoy katiye mohabistho hoye amra neme elam sei pahar theke. Pedong er Sangchen Monastry dekhe amra pouchalam Rikisum. Bon-paharer modhye diye pakdandi path beye anekta uuchute eei Rikisum View Point. Opore aache British amol er tairi ekti Bunglow er dhangshabasesh. Megh-mukto nil akashe chokhe pore anekkhani akaash jure bistrito Kanchanjangha range. Niche dekha jaay paharer kole cha-bagan oo choto choto bosoti. Opore nil, charidike sobuj, tar majhe amar koekti manush protikir eei akripon soundaryer rohoshyo bojhar byartha chesta korlaam kichuta somoy.
Sandhyer aage neme elam Pedong sohore. December er sesher jomati seet. Beshikhon baire thaka jaay na. Guest house ee feere room heater ee gaa-haat-paa besh kore gorom kore niye, cha haate eshe boslaam, ghorer samner chaade. Purnimar alloy charidiker bon-pahar mayabi rup niyeche, ulta diker pahare Kalimpong sohore aalo jole ootheche. Mone hochche jeno samne adhakaar akasher kole keu sahasra pradip jaliyeche. Adda golpe kete gelo anekta somoy.
Pordin sakale breakfast sere, amra beriye porlaam Sikim er Aritar er pathe. Sikim er Rhenock hoye aaro 8 km. pahari path oothe pouchalam Aritar. Paharer kole, sobuje ghera chotto bosoti Aritar. Aar paharer mathay tariri krittim jolasoy ba pokhari ghire tairi hoyeche Eco Tourism Resort - Lam Pokhari. Charidike sobuje ghera lake er dhare eei resort abakaash japoner adarsha sthan. Lake er pash diye sobuj bone dhaka pahar beye ekti badhano rasta uuthe geche paharer mathay obostito View Point ee. Dupure aati sushadu chinese lunch sere, khanik bisram niye amra chollam pahar beye sei View Point ee. Bone chawa pahari path ee, bohu naam na jana pakhir koko-kakali sunte sunte pouchalaam paharer mathay. Eei view point theke nicher Aritar lake ek kathay apurba. Ekhane darale "Bird's Eye View" ee dekha jaay sobuje mora sundaar Aritar Lake, amader othar rasta ti bon-paharer faanke faanke majhe majhe hariye giye niche neme geche lake er paare. Onno dike niche chimcham pahari bosoti charao chokhe porlo ekti Helipad. Kanchanjangha ekhane theke ooto ta bistrito noy, kintu anek kaach theke dekha jaay Kanchanjanghar mul shikhar ti. Nil digonte dhyan gambhir tar upasthiti. Puro bikel ta amra katiye dilam eei View Point ee. Opore ekta Gram oo aache. Sthaniyo lokjon der satheo kichu alap porichoy sara holo, Sandhyer mukhe paharer path beye neme elam Aritar lake er dhare Resort ee.
Seet er sandhay, bon-fire ghire bose besh kichukhon bandhura mile gaan-adda-golpe katiye dilam. Aaj amader eei tour er sesh raat, kaal kei amader feere jete hobe eei sundar prakitir nishkolonko kol chere, sohorer jana-aranye.Tai sobai bodhhoy khanik ta aabeg-probon. Eei desher eeto akripon athacho lukono sounderyer swaad peye, amader mon chaichilo na feere jai eei bon-paharer desh chere. Amra sobai bujhte parchilaam amra rini hoye porechi, amader eei sundaar desh tar kaache. Je desher achena ajana pather banke, abohelito pahari bosotir majhe, ekhono lukono aache, manusher sundaar moner saralata, satata. Prakiti ekhane aajo apon mohimay bikoshito aar sei udaar prakitir motoi sundar oo nishkolonko ekhaner sadharon manush, gorib manush. Chander aloy charidiker bon-pahar jeno haasche, aar sei rupali raat er aalo chayar majhe amra aste aste hariye gelam, kon se eek swapner deshe.

Holong ee ekti Raat

NJP station theke Train charar 30 mins. por theke du pasher drishya-pat palte jete laaglo. Jedike takai sudhu sobuj aar sobuj. Train choleche kokhono pahari nodir opore diye, kokhono cha-baganer pash diye, kokhono ba du dike sobuj dhan khet aar dure dure gram er bari. Kichukhon porei suru holo jongol. Kanchankanyar eei path geche mahananda aar chapramari jongol er modhye diye, New Mal, Hasimara hoye soja Alipur Duar. Cholar pathei jongoler gandhe mon chanchal hoye uthlo.
Hasimara te amar jongoler bandhu Asish gari niye apekhya korchilo. Amra pouchutei mon bhora uchyas niye abbarthana korlo sokol ke. Hasimara theke 12 km path pari diye amra pouchulaam Jaldapara abhayaranya er probesh mukhe. Booking permit dekhiye bhitore jawar anumati pelam. Probesh path theke jungler bhitore aaro koek km. dhuke Holong bunglow. Jongoler madhye besh khanik ta jaygaa faka kore, tairi hoyeche eei bunglow. Ekhane ekta raat katabar moja anya rokom. Charidike jongole ghera bole, ekhane sakale bikale anek pakhir daak sona jaay, dekha jaay oo prochur pakhi. Bunglow er samne ekta jhora bunglow aar jongoler modhye gandi tene diyeche. Jhora periye kichu ta samnei ekta nuni. Majhe majhei bhor raat ee baa sandhye belay, hati, bison, gandaar probhiti trina bhoji ra ashe ekhane nun chatte ebong jol khete.
Dupurer khawa sere, bikal 3 te nagad amra berolaam Jaldapara jeep safari te. Prothom watch tower ee jawar pathei daan pasher ghaas bone te chokhe porlo ek gandaar. Dariye amader kichukhon parjabekhyan kore dhuke gelo ghaas
boner gobhire. Watch tower ee uuthe jongol dekhe besh bhalo laaglo. Watch tower er 3 pash diye 3 te soru path geche jongoler aaro gobhire. Du pashe muloto ghas bon bole anek dur dekha jaay, path gulo chole geche baank kheye jongoler gobhire. Takiye thakle mone hoy jeno kono ajanar ahabaan ee hariye jabar haatchani.


Hatat amader guide nich theke bollo dure bison dekha jachche. Amra taratari niche neme aslaam. Bison er ekta paal rasta perochche, tobe anek dure. Khali chokhe bhalo dekha jachche na bole, binocular chokhe laagalaam aar dekhlaam ek atbhut drishya. Anek dure jongoler bhitore pather majhe ekta moyur pekhom mele nachche ghure ghure aar tar kichu ta pichon diye ekdol bison aste aste rasta periye daan theke baam pasher jongole dhuke jachche. Camerar zoom er baire bole photo tulte parlaam na, kintu chokhe jaa dekhlaam moner lens ee chirokaaler janne ta gethe roilo.
Watch tower theke neme amra chollam Harin-danga bole oono eek watch tower er dike. Jawar pathe hotat gari thamiye amader guide dekhalo, daan pasher jongole gash er opor suye aache eek gandaar ... ghumonto.
Amra chup kore dariye dekhlaam banyera bone koto sundar, koto nishchinto. Beshikhon thakle manusher awaje gandaar er ghum bhenge jete pare, birokto hote pare bole, amra aar okhane na dariye, egiye chollam. Harin-danga watch tower theke 4 te hog deer dekhlaam samner ghaas jomi te chore berachche. Kichukhon sekhane katiye sandyer mukhe amra Holong bunglow te feere elam. Cha kheye amra bunglow er samne jhorar pare eshe boslaam. Amra 6 jon charao aaro jona 5 tourist chilen. Sandhya hobo hobo, emon somoy hotat samner jongol theke moyur deke uuthlo karkash sore. Koek second porei dekhlaam jongol theke beriye eelo eek bishal bison. Soja egiye eelo nuni er kaache. Ebar dan diker jongol theke abaro moyur deke uuthlo aar kichukhoner modhyei beriye eelo aaro 3 te bison. Sandhyer mukhe aalo kom thakai photo tola gelo na. Bunglow te bole jana gelo search light charge dewa nei.

Sarkari abyabosta. Jaihok, jhorar pare bose ulta dike, haat 15 dure 4 te bison dekhatao kom romanchokar noy. Minute 15 por baa diker jongol theke andhakare mone holo ekta kichu jeno beriye eelo. Ektu pore mone holo ekta bodo kalo moto kichu jeno nuni er dike egiye asche. Bhalo kore lakhya kore bojha gelo ekta hati. Aaro bujhte parlaam karon bison gulo hotat chanchal hoye uuthlo, duto paliye gelo daan pasher jongole aar duto nuni theke ektu dure sore daralo. Amra jhorar pare bose jongoler modhye eek romanchokar anubhuti upalabdhi korlaam. Ebhabe pray 45 minute por, bunglow theke search light charge diye niye eelo ekjon aar sei aalo te amra dekhlaam - nunir mukhomukhi dariye aache ekti hati oo tar ulta dike duti bison. Jeno nuni te, ke aage jabe, ta niye bojha-pora hochche. Aaro dekhlaam hati er pichone daan pash geshe ekti gandaar, seo nuni te jawar apekhay. Raater andhakare, search light er aaloy, jongol er modhye ekti nuni te eksathe hati, gandaar oo bison dekhar sei anubhuti bhasay byakto kora bodhhoy sambhab hobe na. Aaro kichukhon sei jongli sandhyar ashyad niye, amra bunglow er bhitore feere elam. Kichuta somoy galpa-gujobe katiye, raater khawa sere abar gelam jhorar pare. Akashe sandhar megh kete giye ekhon nabamir chaand. Tai bujhte asubidhe holo na je nuni aar jhorar majha majhi, amader theke haat 8-10 dure duto gandaar ekmone maati chatche. Amader upashthiti tader bicholito korlo na. Eera bodhhoy bunglow te asha tourist der darshaan diye diye abhastya hoye geche. Raater jongole aaro kichukhon katiye feere elam bunglow er ghore. Taratari suye porte hobe karon bhor 6 tay suru hobe Elephant Safari. Jongoler neshay bund hoya mone, jongoler sapna dekhte dekhtei ghumiye porlaam.

Pordin bhor 6 tay 5 ti hati te 20 jon sawari niye suru holo elephant safari. Sobe kichuta jongoler bhitor dhukechi, emon somoy hatir mahutera hoihoi kore uuthlo. Takiye dekhi samner jongol theke beriye esheche ekti datal hati. Kono rokome ekta photo tulte na tultei mahutera hatigulo ke ekpashe soriye anlo. Sudhu samne egiye gelo ekti hati jar mahuter kaache bandhuk aache. Datal ta tokhon anek ta egiye eseche. Bandhuker rubber bullet tip kore mara holo datal tar kapale. Sathe sather amader hati gulo eksathe por por deke uuthlo. Amader bhagya bhalo, bandhuker awaje aar otogulo hatir eksathe awaje bhoy peye datal ta ulta diker jongole paliye gelo. Ekla hati khub bhayanak hote pare, tai ooti jodi tere asto tobe ki je hoto bola mushkil.
Jongoler dhokar mukhei emon ghatanay jemon bhoy peye gechilaam, datal ta chole jawar por besh uttejona anubhab korlaam emon ekta ghotonar sakhkhi hoyar janne. Apsosh je emon ghotonar movie newa gelo na. Abashya movie newar katha mathateo chilo na. Ee to aar cinema ba discovery channel er chobi noy, ee holo jongoler bastabata, jekhane kokhon ki ghotbe ta keu jane na.
Jai hok, hati gulo jongoler bhitor diye giye eshe pouchalo eek bistirno ghaas bone. Hatir pithe uuche te thakar janne, dur thekei dekhte peyechilaam je ghaas bone duti gandaar. Amader hati giye pouchalo sei gandaar der kaache. Khub kaach theke gardaar dutir chobi tolar sujog pelam. Aaro khanik ta egiye ekta jhora periye hati abar dhuklo gobhir jongole. Kichu ta jabar por gacher faake nojore porlo dhusor ronger kichu ekta norche. Kaache jetei doure paliye gelo ekti sambar harin. Ek jholok dekhlaam sudhu, tarporei jongoler aaro gobhire lukiye porlo se. Ferar pothe gach-palar faank diye chokhe porle ekti barking deer. Hatir pithe sohure manush dekhe ekjholok dekha diye seo bhoy peye lukiye gelo aaro gobhir jongole. Khub sundaar ekti jongol bhraman holo amader eei elephant safari te. Bhorer jongoler misti batashe mon-pran tortaja hoye uuthlo.
Ebar ferar pala. Breakfast kore, aaro kichukhon bunglow er samne jhorar dhare katiye, amra beriye porlaam amader poroborti gantabyer uudeshye. Holong ee ekti raat jongoler sannigdhe katiye, jongli neshay bund hoye amra aaro jongol dekhar ashay pari dilam bharater ekti anyatama gobhir, rahashya abrito jongoler dike - Buxa Tiger Reserve. Sei golpo sonabo aar eek din.